Our 7 favourites of Mérida
Apoala restaurant
Portales de Santa Lucía, Merida Centro
www.apoala.mx
OK, so it’s a little more on the pricey side as far as Mérida goes, but if you’re looking for something a little different than the local favourites of papadzules or lime soup, check this place out. It has a modern menu using local ingredients, and it was refreshing to see some vegetables on the menu in such a meat-loving city. We loved the fresh tomato and habanero salsas with the thinnest crisp-baked tostadas, beef short rib tiradito with pineapple butter, and seared tuna with squash, tiny potatoes and fresh leaves with a punchy dressing. Sit in the square as the sun sets and hope for some local dancing on the stage nearby. Don't forget to ask your waiter about the secret ‘speakeasy’ bar hidden round the back. Shhh.
Beef Short Rib Tiradito at Apoala Restaurant
Lucas de Galves market
Calle 65 y 69 x 56 y 56a, Centro
It’s heaving, It’s loud, It’s smelly and hot. However, if you really want to see real life in full swing, go and get lost in this market. This end of town has a much wilder feel to the well kept centre. Have a go at bartering, take a camera and refresh yourself with a cold agua fresca or paleta afterwards.
Lucas De Galvez Market
Slow Food Market
9am - 1pm Saturdays
Calle 33d (near the Wyndham Hotel)
The other end of the scale to Lucas de Galves, this peaceful market has a different pace entirely. With about 15 - 20 local producers lined up under the dappled shade of the pavement, this modest row of stalls might be a more gentle start to the weekend if you’ve had one too many Mezcal’s the night before. Sample pure chocolate with cinnamon, sharp and sweet fresh naranja agria juice, cacao and nut milks... it’s all very bohemian, but a great place to sample some natural produce. We picked up some of the sweetest baby tomatoes from a farmer and tried a delicious cactus and cheese sope with chilli salsa. There are a couple of good cafes serving some great food too if you fancy a little more to eat or a coffee.
Cactus and cheese sope, with a spicy Habanero salsa at the Slow Food market
La Negrita Cantina, Mon- Sat 12-10pm
Entre Calle 49 y Calle 62
You can’t come to Mérida without experiencing their infamous Cantinas. We were told these were influenced heavily from Cuba, due to the fact Cubans used to stop off in Merida before making the boat trip to the USA. Whatever the true history is, we loved the mash up of Cuban and Mexican flavours giving an all round lively, informal and friendly atmosphere. Go early, hungry, thirsty and full of energy! If you want to carry on the party head to their sister mescaleria called La Fundacion, open until much later.
The garden at La Negrita Cantina (10 points if you spot Dave)
Marquesitas
All over the city at food carts
Some of the most interesting and intriguing food of any country is what is served on the streets. We are attracted to those steaming carts and stalls with colourful signs with names we don't understand, not knowing whats on offer is another exciting draw. With a crowd of locals early in the morning, all you need is a little confidence to squeeze in the que and pretend you know what everyone is so keen to get a bite of. A particular favourite of ours was the weird and wonderful Marquesita, a thin, sweet crispy crepe-like pancake, cooked between cast iron clamps and filled with nutella or mature Dutch Edam cheese (or both).
What's not to love?!
Cenotes
Town of Homún
You have to see a few Cenotes whilst in Merida, skip the busier town of Cuzama and head to Homún a little further down the road. If you would like to read more about what we experienced of Cenotes, you can read the Merida post here!
Blue water cenotes of Homún
Wayan’e
Calle 15 92-e por 20 y 18, Itzimná
It’s really worth speaking to people you meet to get a quick insider’s guide to street food. Dave really enjoyed hanging with the locals after Christian, our Air bnb host recommended Wayan’e taco stand, in a suburb of Merida. Try the castacan roll, fatty pork belly is fried until crisp with melted cheese, served on a warm toasted buttery brioche bun, add some hot Habanero salsa to cut through all that fat. So wrong but right. Also the Chaya leaf scrambled egg tacos are a lovely little side.
Tacos from Wayan'e as a chaser to the castacan roll! Top left: Chaya leaf and scrambled egg, Top right: Pork with recede dojo, bottom: pork a la plancha