A day in Mexican kitchen

We are sat in one of Mérida’s Cantinas as I scribble this down in my note pad. It’s a great way to shelter from the harsh midday heat (and I’m slowly working my way through a long list of Mexican beers - don’t worry Mum they're only 4%). Today is a hot one, but no way near as hot as yesterday…

Earlier in the week we had spent the day visiting Cenotes with Jorge and Brenda (as mentioned in the previous post) in the small village of Homún, about an hour south of Mérida. That day, we stopped for lunch at ‘Mama Grande Cocina Economica’, a restaurant that serves wholesome and usually traditional food that is prepared from scratch, daily. The dishes are priced so they are accessible for everyone to afford, and many local people buy them to take home. We learnt this after a chat with Hector the owner.

Mama Grande Cocina Economica, Homún

As we chatted, Jorge mentioned I was a chef and in true Mexican style, Hector invited us both to spend a day, or even longer, at their place later that week. I thought this would be a brilliant insight into real Mexican cooking, and an education into some of the Yucatecan dishes.

We returned a few days later as early in the morning as we could. On our arrival Hector greeted us and instantly offered us a huge breakfast, with coffee and horchata. I was personally a little apprehensive to spend a day in a kitchen with 6 or so Mexican women. I soon found out none of that mattered - they were all welcoming, open and friendly, even the oldest lady of the gang, who refused to cook on gas. Apparently, she insisted on only using open fire keeping to keep the Yucatecan traditions alive, and teaching a younger generation.

Hector the owner, showing us some indigenous fruits in the garden

In the front area of the restaurant, the place had a real community feel. It was spacious and un-rushed, whole families would stick around around for chats, and the soundtrack of the popular ‘banda’ music was on the TV - Mexico’s answer to country music performed by ex-gangsters dressed like cowboys. Hector’s entire family seemed to be involved in the restaurant: his wife, sister, uncle and nephew all contributing. All the dishes prepared were labour intensive and time consuming to prepare. This place had been built on pure hard work, sweat and determination to serve the community - all without any addition state support.

This lady, known to the team as 'Lady', is making Panuchos - soft tortillas filled black beans

We were both under the impression that I was coming there for the day to work, and contribute to the restaurant, as well as learn some new cookery methods and exchange ideas. This wasn't really the case. I was dying to pick up a knife or cook something. Hector said that we were guests, and he wanted us to enjoy the day. We went along with whatever he said, which mainly involved tasting something every five minutes.

I’ve written a detailed post here about the dishes we tried and watched being prepared that day.

Cochinita Pibil - Slow cooked pork, under a banana leaf lid

One of the younger kitchen members preparing Papadzules

I wasn't going to leave without cooking, of course not. I asked if there was anything I could do to contribute throughout the day, but it was clear we were invited as guests. Dish after dish was thrust in front of us to taste, smell, prod and give our verdict on. I wanted to say thanks for their hospitality, so we made a few flatbreads with some flour I took from their dry store. Not a huge amount of wheat flour is used in Mexican cooking, so I thought it may be something new for them to learn, without being too much of a chef about it.

Making flat breads

Half way through making the dough, with an audience of the kitchen ladies, we were called outside to watch a Good Friday precession happening outside Mama grande. We stood and watched the sombre march through the street as people carried large crosses, in the roasting heat of the day, (with flatbread dough up to my wrists still.) We headed back inside and grilled the flatbreads over the open charcoal out the back, which took about 30 minutes of constant sweating and bellowing smoke in your face. I thought I don't know how they do this everyday without fainting or sweating to death. We brushed the cooked breads with a tasty caramelised garlic oil Lou made. We had no idea how our breads would be perceived by the set in their way ladies of the Cocina Ecomonica, but they all tucked in spreading on some of the sikil pa’ak dip that had just been made. A few nods and thumbs up meant we had done OK! Hector asked me if I could show some of the younger team any presentation tips, but to be honest they were great workers who didn't really need any tips from me. I showed them how to make a piping bag, some old school French style saucing, quenelles and suggested some Mexican restaurants for the young aspiring chefs to get in touch with.

Chicken cooks on the open fire

We had a brilliant day that we felt lucky to be a part of. I’m sure this will be the start of many more days spent in kitchens learning more authentic dishes from those who know how to make them. There’s no website I can link for Mama Grande Cocina Economica, but if your passing through Homún then stop off there for a wholesome meal.

Thanks Hector you're a top man, and thanks Louise for sticking out a day in the smoke with me.